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Arran
ARRAN,(1) an island in the
frith of Clyde, forming part of the shire of Bute. It lies in the
mouth of the frith, or in the centre of the large bay of the Northern
channel formed by the peninsula of Kintyre on the west, and the
Ayrshire coast on the east; from the former it is distant about 6
miles, and is separated by the sound of Kilbrannan ; from the latter,
the average distance is about 13 miles, and the channel betwixt them
is distinguished from the sound on the west of the island as being the
frith of Clyde. From the island of Bute on the north, the least
distance is 5 miles. Its greatest length, from the Cock of Arran, on
the north, to the Struey rocks on the south, is about 26 miles ; and
the greatest breadth, from Clachland's point on the east, to Drimodune
point on the west, is 12 miles, (2) The general
outline is that of an irregular ellipse, little indented by bays or
inlets. The largest indentation is that of Lamlash bay betwixt
Clachland's point and King's cross point, on the east coast. Loch
Ranza, near the Cock, or northern extremity of the island, is a very
small inlet. Brodick bay, a little to the north of Lamlash bay,
between Corriegill point on the south, and Merkland point on the
north, affords good anchorage in about o fathoms water, but little
shelter to vessels, especially in a north-east gale. Including the
islet of Pladda on the south, and Holy isle in the mouth of Lamlash
bay, the area of Arran is about 100,000 Scots acres, of which 11,179
are arable, and 613 are under plantations. There is also a
considerable extent of natural coppice-wood on the northwest and
north-east coast. The south end of the island is remarkably destitute
of any thing approaching to plantation, and even of copsewood.
The island of Arran is divided into five
principal districts: viz., Brodick, Lamlash, Southend, Shiskin, and
Loch Ranza.
The Brodick district is that portion of the
island most frequently visited by tourists, and most generally
resorted to for sea-bathing. It lies around the bay of the same name,
and extends northwards to South Sannox. Its northern part is composed
of the towering Goatfell, and its brother-mountains; and the beautiful
glens or mountain-ravines called Glen Rosa or Rossie, Glen Sherrig,
Glen Shant, and Glen Cloy, occur here. The base of the mountains here
approaches close to the sea, so that the full effect of their
altitude—which in Goatfell is 2,865 feet (3) -
imposes itself on the eye of the spectator from the
sea or beach, while they are constantly
varying their appearance, as seen from any quarter, under the
accidents of weather, light, and shade. The lower part of Goatfell is
composed of red sandstone; then follows mica-slate, which is
surmounted by a pyramidal mass of granite. The view from the summit
embraces the coast of Ireland from Fairhead to Belfast loch; and the
mountains of Isla, Jura, and Mull. The ascent may be accomplished,
with the aid of a guide, in about two hours; and is best achieved from
the inn at Brodick. The natives call this mountain Gaodh Bhein, or
Ben-Ghaoit, that is 'the Mountain of Winds.' To the eye of a spectator
on the summit of Goatfell—which is the loftiest peak in this granitic
district—the neighbouring mountains present a wild assemblage of bare
ridges, yawning chasms, abrupt precipices, and every fantastic form of
outline,
while the profound gulfs between them are
darkened by eternal shadow.—On the north side of Brodick bay,
adjoining the village, is the castle of Brodick, one of the seats of
the duke of Hamilton. It is an old irregular pile of building, of
secluded aspect, but in good repair. Mr. Galbraith has recently
ascertained its position to be in N. lat. 55° 35' 45"; W. long. 5° 10'
42". The grounds around it are well-wooded ; and the majestic heights
of Goatfell, and Bennish [2,598 feet], rise in the immediate
background. This stronghold was surprised by James Lord Douglas, Sir
Robert Boyd, and other partizans of Bruce in 1306, demolished in 1456,
rebuilt by James V., and garrisoned by Cromwell. Cromwell's garrison,
to the number of 80 men, it is traditionally related, were surprised
and cut off by the natives.— On the opposite side of the bay, and at
about one mile's distance from the sea, in Glen Cloy, is Kilmichael,
the seat of John Fullarton, Esq., whose immediate ancestors received
this estate, and a farm on the west side of the island, from Robert
Bruce, for services rendered to him
while in concealment in this island. Martin
says : " If tradition be true, this little family is said to be of
seven hundred years standing. The present possessor obliged me with
the sight of his old and new charters, by which he is one of the
king's coroners within this island, and as such, he hath a halbert
peculiar to his office ; he has his right of late from the family of
Hamilton, wherein his title and perquisites of coroner are confirmed
to him and his heirs. He is obliged to have three men to attend him
upon all public emergencies, and he is bound by his olfice to pursue
all malefactors, and to deliver them to the steward, or in his absence
to the next judge. And if any of the inhabitants refuse to pay their
rents at the usual term, the coroner is bound to take him personally,
or to seize his goods. And if it should happen that the coroner with
his retinue of three men is not sufficient to put his office in
execution, then he summons all the inhabitants to concur with him ;
and
immediately they rendezvous to the place,
where he fixes his coroner's staff. The perquisites due to the coroner
are a firlot or bushel or oats, and a lamb from every village in the
isle; both which are punctually paid him at the ordinary terms." ['
Description of the Western Islands.']
Fergus Mac-Louis, or Fullarton's, charter is
dated Nov. 26, 1307.
A number of cottages and villas are scattered
along Brodick bay, which is becoming a favourite watering place during
the summer. Dr. Macculloch speaks of it in terms of unwonted rapture.
" Every variety of landscape," he says, "is united in this
extraodinary spot. The rural charms of the ancient English village,
unrestricted in space and profuse of unoccupied land, are joined to
the richness of cultivation and contrasted with the wildness of
moorland and rocky pasture. On one hand is the wild mountain torrent,
and on another, the tranquil river meanders through the rich plain.
Here the sea curls on the smooth beach, and there it foams against a
rocky shore, or washes the foot of the high and rugged cliffs, or the
skirts of the wooded hill. The white sails of boats are seen passing
and repassing among trees,— the battlements of the castle, just
visible, throw an air of ancient grandeur over the woods, and, united
to this variety, is all the sublimity and all the rudeness of the
Alpine landscape which surrounds and involves
the whole. ['Highlands and Western Isles,' vol. ii. p. 29.] There is
regular steam-communication between Brodick and the port of Ardrossan
in Ayrshire daily during summer ; but this route to Glasgow is
circuitous, and there is a want of direct daily communication with
that city, steamers proceeding to Arran twice a week. These latter
boats generally make Brodick bay in about 6 or 7 hours, and, after
discharging passengers, proceed round to Lamlash bay, where they lie
during the night, returning to Brodick for passengers at an early hour
next morning.
Lamlash district, to the south of Brodick
district, has but a small extent of plantation within it, and no hills
exceeding 1,200 feet in altitude. The village is in the form of a
crescent facing the bay and the Holy isle, and backed by wooded
heights, beyond which the green and rounded summits of the hills in
this district are seen. The church is at the southern extremity of the
village, which is 4½ miles distant from Brodick, and 4 miles north of
Whiting bay. See article KILBRIDE. - "The bay of Lamlash," says
Headrick, "may be about 3 miles, in a right line, from its northern to
its southern entrance; and at its centre it forms a sort of semicircle
of nearly 2 miles across, having the Holy isle on one side, and the
vale of Lamlash on the other. The northern wing projects nearly
towards north-east, while the southern projects nearly towards
south-east, giving to the whole a figure approaching to that of a
horseshoe, which prevents the waves of the ocean from
getting into the interior bay. The two inlets
may be about a quarter of a mile in breadth at their mouths, and widen
gradually as they approach the central bay. The southern inlet is
preferred by mariners, because here there is no danger but what, is
seen. The northern inlet is equally safe to those who know it: but the
tails of rocks we have described as projected from Dun-Fioun, and the
gradual decrease of altitude of the rocks on the opposite point of
Holy isle, cause them to extend a considerable way below the sea,
before they sink out of the reach of vessels drawing a great depth of
water. But to those who know the channel, there is sufficient depth,
at both entrances, for the largest ships of the line. Within, there is
good
holding-ground ; sufficient depth for the
largest ships; and room enough for the greatest navy to ride at
anchor. In fact, this is one of the best harbours in the frith of
Clyde,—if not in the world. In front of the village dutchess Ann — who
seems to have been a woman of superior capacity—caused a harbour to be
built of large quadrangular blocks of sandstone. We may form some idea
of the magnitude and solidity of this work, when informed that it cost
£2,913 10s. 5 4/12d sterling, at a time when masons' wages are said to
Lave been 8d., and labourers' wages 4d. per day. It is a great pity
this building was allowed to be demolished ; because its ruins render
the village of more difficult access from the sea, than if it had
never been constructed.' ['View,' pp. 88—91.] This harbour has now
nearly disappeared ; a great part of the stones have been carried off
to build the new quay a few hundred yards to the north, and the sand
has buried a part. "The Holy isle is interesting," says Macculloch, "
as well for the beauty of its conical form, rising to 1,000
(4) feet, as for the view from its summit, and
the striking character of its columnar
cliffs. The ascent is rendered peculiarly laborious; no less from the
steepness and irregularity of the ground, than from the tangled growth
of the Arbutus uva ursi by which it is covered. The whole surface
scarcely bears any other plant than this beautiful trailing shrub;
peculiarly beautiful when its bright scarlet berries are present to
contrast with the rich dark green of its elegant foliage. The columnar
cliffs, which lie on the east side, though having no pretensions to
the regularity of Staffa, are still picturesque, and are free from the
stiffness too common in this class of rock ; consisting of various
irregular stages piled on each other, broken, and intermixed with
ruder masses of irregular rocks, and with verdure and shrubs of humble
growth. Beneath, a smooth and curved recess in a mass of sandstone,
produces that species of echo which occurs in the whispering gallery
of St. Paul's, and in other similar situations. There are no ruins now
to be traced in Lamlash ; but Dean Monro says that it had 'ane
monastery of friars,' founded by John, Lord of the Isles, ' which is
decayit.' That was in 1594; and what was then decayed, has now
disappeared. He calls the island Molass; and it is pretended that
there was a cave,(5) or hermitage, inhabited by a
Saint Maol Jos, who is buried at Shiskin, on the south side of Arran.
It is further said that there was once a castle here, built by
Somerlid." — King's Cross, in this district, which forms the dividing
headland between Lamlash bay and Whiting bay, is said by some to have
been the point from whence Robert Bruce watched for the lighting-up of
the 'signal-flame' at Turnberry point, on the opposite coast of
Ayrshire, which was to intimate to him that the way was clear for his
making a descent on the Carrick coast. Other traditions—which are
followed by Sir Walter Scott in his 'Lord of the Isles.' [See Canto V.
st. 7 and 17.] — represent Bruce as first hailing the supposed signal,
'so flickering, fierce, and bright,' from the battlements of Brodick
castle. See TURNBERRY.
Southend district stretching from Largybeg
point, the southern extremity of Whiting bay, to Kilpatrick on
Drimodune bay, is the most valuable district of the island in
agricultural respects. There is here a belt of cultivated land, in
some places of considerable breadth, between the shore and the
secondary hills of the interior. The scenery is of a milder character
than that of any other quarter of the island ; but there is no
accommodation for bathers in this direction, the only houses being a
few farm-hamlets and scattered shielings, and the beach being rocky.
This district is intersected by two main rivulets, viz. the Torlin or
Torrylin, towards the east, and the water of Sliddery towards the
west. These streams run nearly parallel
to each other, from north-east to south-west,
and receive numerous tributary streams in their progress from the
secondary mountains towards the sea. Most of the other burns which
flow into the sea are merely mountain-torrents, the beds of which are
nearly dry except when they are swelled by excessive rains. These
burns have cut deep chasms or ravines in the strata; and the main
streams have frequently formed delightful valleys, though sometimes of
small extent. Towards the head of Glen Scordel, from which the main
branch of the water of Sliddery flows, and in several other places,
there are vast veins of
whinstone, interspersed with innumerable
particles of pyrites, which retain their full brilliancy, in spite of
exposure to air and the astringent moss-water to the action of which
they are subjected. " These," says Headrick, "the people are confident
in the belief of being gold ; and I confess I was a little staggered,
until my ingenious friend, Dr. Thomson, by analyzing a specimen,
assured me that the gold was neither more nor less than pyrites of
iron!!—The islet of Pladda lies opposite Kildonan point in this
division. See PLADDA. The ruins of Kildonan castle, a small square
fortalice, surmount the sea-bank here, but present no historical
associations of interest. A large portion of the walls fell about 10
years ago. — Auchinhew burn, in this quarter, presents, according to
Headrick, in the upper part of its wild ravine course, a fall or
cascade, called Essiemore. - The Struey rocks, further to the west, or
Bennan head, are precipitous cliffs of black basalt rising to an
altitude of from 300 to 400 feet above a beach thickly strewn with
their dissevered fragments. A little to the west of these rocks is a
vast cave called the Black cave.— The kirk and manse of Kilmorie are
situated in this district, on
the Torrylin, where its mouth forms a small
harbour for boats. See KILMORIE.
Shiskin district, so called from the little
village or hamlet of Shiskin, or Shedog, is chiefly remarkable for the
extensive natural caves which occur here in the sandstone rocks close
upon the beach. One of these, called the King's cove, is supposed to
have given shelter to 'the royal Bruce.' It is situated opposite
Portree in Higher Cardel of Kintyre. ' It is also universally reputed
to have been the occasional residence of Fioun,(6) or
Fingal, when he resorted to Arran for the purpose of hunting. " The
old people here," says Headrick, " have many ridiculous stories about
Fioun and his heroes, which have been transmitted, from a remote
period, by father to son,— in their progress becoming more and more
extravagant. They believe Fioun and his heroes to have been giants of
extraordinary size. They say that Fioun made a bridge from Kintyre to
this place,
over which he could pass, by a few steps,
from the one land to the other. But, what is esteemed ocular
demonstration of the gigantic size of Fioun, and sufficient to
overwhelm the most obstinate scepticism, the hero is said to have had
a son born to him in the cave; and a straight groove, cut on the side
of the cave, is shown, which is firmly believed to have been the exact
length of the child's foot the day after he was born. The groove is
more than 2 feet in length; and, taking the human foot to be one sixth
of a man's height, it follows, the child must have been more than 12
feet high the day after he was born! The cave is scooped out of
fine-grained white sandstone. A perpendicular vein of the same
sandstone has stood in the centre, from which the strata dip rapidly
on each side, forming the roof into a sort of Gothic arch, to which
the vein above serves the purpose of a key-stone. At the back part of
the cave, this vein comes down to the bottom, and forms a
perpendicular column with a recess on each side. The northern recess
is only a few feet. The southern is of uncertain extent, being
gradually contracted in breadth, and nearly closed by rounded stones.
The length of this recess is about 30 feet. From the pillar in the
back-ground, to the mouth of the cave, exceeds 100 feet. The greatest
breadth may be about 49 feet; and the greatest height the same. The
mouth has been defended by a rampart of loose stones ; and stones are
scattered through the cave which seem to have been used as seats. On
the column there is a figure cut resembling a two-handed sword. Some
think this was an exact representation of the sword of Fioun ; others
of that of Robert Bruce. To me it appears to be neither one nor other,
but a representation of the cross. It stands upon a rude outline
representing a mountain, probably Mount Calvary. On each side there is
a figure kneeling and praying towards the cross. The sides of the cave
exhibit innumerable small figures equally rude, representing dogs
chasing stags, and men shooting arrows at them. They also represent
goats, sheep, cattle, and various other animals, though the figures
are so rude, that it is seldom possible to ascertain what they
represent." Mr Jamieson, [p. 125,] thinks these scratches were " made
by idle fishermen, or smugglers." Macculloch calls them " casual
scratches by idle boys." North of this cave are several smaller caves,
which communicate with each other. One of these is called the King's
kitchen, another his cellar, his larder, etc. On the south side there
is a cave called the King's stable, presenting a larger area than the
palace, as the cave of residence is called. The scene from the mouth
of these caves, in a line summer-day, is very beautiful. And sweet it
were to sit here —
"When still and dim
The beauty-breathing hues of eve expand ;
When day's last roses fade on Ocean's brim,
And Nature veils her brow, and chants her vesper-hymn."
The Blackwater, a considerable stream, here
falls into Drimodune bay. A small harbour has been constructed at its
mouth, which is the ferrying-place to Campbelton, and from which there
is a road across the island, by Shedog, the western side of Craigvore,
Corbie's craig, Glen Ture, and Glen Sherrig, to Brodick. - The Mauchry
burn is another considerable stream descending from Glen Ture, and
falling into Mauchry bay to the north of the King's cove. Pennant
tells us that this river flows through a rocky channel, which, in one
part has worn through a rock, and left so contracted a gap at the top
as to form a very easy step across. " Yet not long ago," he adds, " a
"poor woman in the attempt, after getting one foot over, was struck
with such horror at the tremendous torrent beneath, that she remained
for some hours in that attitude, not daring to bring her other foot
over, till some kind passenger luckily came by and assisted her out of
her distress!" The remaining or northern portion of the island forms
the Loch Ranza district, extending from Auchnagallen, a little to the
north of the Mauchry burn, round, by the Cock of Arran, to Corrie
point on the east coast. This is a highly interesting district in
point of scenery. The road by the shore presents a succession of
beautiful views; and the village or hamlet of Loch Ranza itself is one
of the most picturesque spots anywhere to be found in the western
islands. It has a safe harbour formed by a natural inlet of the sea in
the mouth of the valley or or glen. Pennant, who crossed over to this
bay from the Argyle coast, says: "The approach was magnificent; a fine
bay in front, about a mile deep, having a ruined castle near the lower
end, on a low
far projecting neck of land, that forms
another harbour, With a narrow passage ; but within has three fathom
of water, even at the lowest ebb. Beyond is a little plain watered by
a stream, and inhabited by the people of a small village. The whole is
environed by a theatre of mountains ; and in the backgroud the
serrated crags of Grianan-Athol soar above "—[Tour to the Western
Isles, p. 191-2.] Lord Teignmouth who saw Loch Ranza under its
winter-aspect says - 'In point of gloomy grandeur no British bay
surpasses Loch Ranza. Dark ridges hem it in." We are quite sure that
gloomy grandeur is not the common impression left by this scene on the
eye and mind of the visitor. While residing here in summer we have
often felt the beauty and truth of the sentiment conveyed in the
bard's description of the approach of Bruce's little armament to this
point of 'Arran s isle:'—
"The sun, ere yet he
sunk behind
Ben-Ghoil, 'the Mountain of the Wind'
Gave his grim peaks a greeting kind,
And bade Loch Ranza smile.
Thither their destined course they drew ;
It seem'd the isle her monarch knew,
So brilliant was the landward view,
The ocean so serene ;
Each puny wave in diamonds roll'd
O'er the calm deep, where hues of gold
With azure strove and green.
The hill, the vale, the tree, the tower,
Glow'd with the tints of evening's hour ;
The beach was silver sheen ;
The wind breathed soft as lover's sigh,
And, oft renew'd, seem'd oft to die,
With breathless pause between.
O who, with speech of war and woes,
Would wish to break the soft repose
Of such enchanting scene!"
Glen Sannox in this district has been
compared to the celebrated Glencoe. " It is," says Macculloch, " the
sublime of magnitude, and simlicity, and obscurity, and silence.
Possessing no water, except the mountain torrents, it is far inferior
to Coruisk in variety ; equally also falling short of it in grandeur
and diversity of outline. It is inferior too in dimensions, since that
part of it which admits of a comparison, does not much exceed a mile
in length. But, to the eye, that difference of dimension is scarcely
sensible: since here, as in that valley, there is no scale by which
the magnitude can be determined. The effect of vacancy united to
vastness of dimension is the same in both: there is the same
deception, at first, as to the space; which is only rendered sensible
by the suddenness with which we lose sight of our companions, and by
the sight of unheard torrents. Perpetual twilight appears to reign
here, even at mid-day : a gloomy and grey atmosphere uniting, into one
visible sort of obscurity, the only lights which the objects ever
receive, reflected from rock to rock, and from the clouds which so
often involve the lofty boundaries of this valley." No one should
visit Arran without attempting to make themselves acquainted with the
beauty of the coast-scenery from Brodick to Glen Sannox; and, if time
permits, to travel from Sannox to Loch Ranza, through Glen Halmidel,
the excursion will not be regretted - There is a small chapel at Loch
Ranza, built about 60 years ago at the expense of the duke of
Hamilton, on the boundary between Kilmorie and Kilbride parishes, but
within the former parish. It is distant, by the road, about 24 miles
from Kilmorie of Hamilton, bearing date, 1st April, 1710.
The climate of Arran is moist, but is
considered mild and healthy. Sudden and heavy falls of rain ir. summer
and autumn are its greatest disadvantages. Many greenhouse-plants
stand the winter in the open air at Brodick castle, and at different
villas along the coast. - There are no foxes, badgers, or weasels, in
Arran; but the brown rat is very destructive. Red deer exist in the
northern part of the island. Black and red grouse are abundant; and
there are a few pheasants. Eagles are frequently seen here; we have
ourselves in the course of a single day seen no less than four of
these noble birds. Trout are numerous ; and fine sea-trout are
occasionally taken in the Jorsa, and Loch Jorsa. Adders and snakes are
said by Headrich to be very numerous, but we have seldom seen either
species of reptile on this island. The botany of Arran is considered
rich - The geognostic structure of this island has been elaborately
examined by Professor Jamieson, in his ' Outline of the mineralogy of
the Shetland islands, and the island of Arran.' The greater portion of
the northern part of the island consists of primitive rocks; floetz
rock constitutes the southern half. The Goatfell group is of granite.
Holy isle consists of a mass of basalt. Porphyritic rocks are found at
Lamlash, Drimodune, and some other places; and pitch-stone frequently
occurs both in beds and veins.
The ecclesiastical statistics of Arran will
be detailed under the articles KILBRIDE. and KILMORIE. There are six
parochial schools in the island. The population, in 1801, was 5,179;
in 1821, 6,541 ; in 1831, 6,427; and in 1841, 6,181. The decrease in
the last decennial periods has been chiefly occasioned by the
emigration of people, principally from Sannox district, to Lower
Canada. - The proprietors of this island are the Duke of Hamilton, the
Hon. Mrs. Westenra, and Fullarton of Kilmichael and Whitefarlane. The
duke is by far the greatest proprietor. His grace's arable land, in
1813, was 10,228 Scots acres; and his present rental £10,000, arising
from 458 farms or possessions. [See a valuable paper, by Mr. John
Paterson, in the 'Prize-essays of the Highland Society,' vol. v. pp.
125-154.] We have already, in the course of this article, had occasion
to notice the various traditions which exist in Arran respecting
Fingal; and may now suggest that some of these may owe their origin to
the early presence of the Norwegians, called Fiongall, or 'white
foreigners,' by the Irish annalists. Somerled, thane of Argyle in the
12th century — whose name has also occurred in this article — appears
to have been of Scoto-Irish descent. His father Gillibrede had
possessions on the mainland of Argyle, probably in the district of
Morvern. When yet a youth, Somerled signally defeated a band of Norse
pirates; and, having obtained high reputation for his prowess and
skill in arms, was enabled ultimately to assume the title of Lord or
Regulus of Argyle, and to compel Godred of Norway to cede to him what
were then called the South isles, namely, Bute, Arran, Islay, Jura,
Mull, and the peninsula of Kintyre. On the death of Somerled, in 1164,
Mr. Gregory conjectures that Arran was probably divided between his
sons Reginald and Angus, and may have been the cause of the deadly
feud which existed between them. ['History of the Western Highlands
and Isles,' Edin. 1836'. vo. p. 17.] Angus, with his sons, fell in an
engagement with the men of Skye in 1210; where upon Dugall, another
son of Somerled, and the ancestor of the house of Argyle and Lorn,
patronymically called Macdougal, succeeded to his possessions. It
appears, however, that the kings of Norway continued to be
acknowledged as the sovereigns of the Isles, until their final cession
to the Scottish crown by Magnus of Norway, in July, 1266. Somerled's
descendants now became vassals of the king of Scotland for all their
possessions; but the islands of Man, Arran, and Bute, were annexed to
the Crown. After the unfortunate battle of Methven, Robert Bruce lay
for some time concealed, it is said, in Arran; and afterwards in the
little island of Rachrin on the northern coast of Ireland, whence he
again passed over to Arran with a fleet of 33 galleys, and 300 men,
and joined Sir James Douglas, who, with a band of Bruce's devoted
adherents, had contrived to maintain themselves in Arran, and to seize
the castle of Brodick, then held by Sir John Hastings, an English
knight; and here he projected his descent on the Carrick coast. On the
marriage of the Princess Mary, eldest sister of James III., to Sir
Thomas Boyd, eldest son of Lord Boyd, in 1466, the island of Arran was
erected into an earldom in favour of Boyd; but upon the forfeiture of
that family, the house of Hamilton rose upon its ruins; and, a divorce
having been obtained, the Countess of Arran gave her hand to Lord
Hamilton — to whom it had been promised in 1454 — and conveyed with it
the earldom of Arran. [Tytler's History of Scotland,vol. iv. p. 227]
{1 Pronounced in Gaelic
Arrinn. Dr. Macleod deduces this name from Ar, 'a land' or 'country,'
and rinn, 'sharp points.' Hence Arrinn will signify 'the Island of
sharp pinnacles:' an etymology far more satisfactory than that of
Ar-fhin, 'the Land' or the 'Field of Fion,' ie. Fingal; or from Aran,
'bread,' as denoting extraordinary fertility, which is by no means a
characteristic of this island.}
{2 Headrick estimates the
length of this island, measuring from N. E. to S. W., at 34 or 35
miles ; and its breadth as varying from 15 to 20 miles. Mr. Jardine
states its length to be only 21 miles, and its breadth 9. Professor
Jamieson, in his ' Outline of the Mineralogy of Arran, 'estimates its
length at 32, and breadth at 12 miles. The writer of the article
Arran, in the 'Penny Cyclopædia,' vaguely estimates its length from
near Loch Ranza, in the N.N.W., to Kildonan, in the S.S.E,, at
"somewhat more than 20 miles; and its greatest breadth at 12." The
Rev. Angus Macmillan, minister of Kilmorie, in his evidence before the
Commissioners of Religious Instruction, [Report VIII. p. 470.,] states
the greatest length of his parish to be upwards of 30 miles. The
admeasurements in our text have been given after a careful examination
and comparison of the best maps and reports on the island.}
{3 This is Dr. MacCulloch's
admeasurement. Professor Play-fair estimates its height at 2,945; Mr.
Galbraith at 2,863 feet}
{4 Mr. Burrel's barometrical
admeasurement gave only 891 feet.}
{5 Headrick affirms the
existence of and describes this cave. See 'View,' p. 80.}
{6 Fiona means fair-haired;
Gael was added to denote his race or nation. Highlanders seldom apply
the epithet Gael to Fioun, unless you express doubts concerning his
extraction. But they often characterize him by the surname of MacCoul,
the name of his father.—Headrick,}
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