Overview

The following links lead to Rev. Lawson's chapters from his 'Ailsa Craig':

Ownership

History

 

Ownership of Ailsa Craig

The creatures see of flood and field,

And those that travel on the wind!

With them no strife can last; they live
                           In peace, and peace of mind.

For why?- because the good old rule

Sufficeth them, the simple plan,

 That they should take who have the power,
                             And they should keep who can.
                                                 - Wordsworth.


From the earliest times, Ailsa Craig seems to have 'belonged to the Barony of Knockgarron. Some owners of that property must therefore have established a claim to it in days of old. And as Knockgarron is in Dailly parish, the strange anomaly occurs of a parish, no part of which is within two miles of the sea, including within its bounds our solitary Ayrshire island. At the time, however, when we can trace the ownership of Ailsa by means of written documents, the Barony of Knockgarron was included "within the wide domains of the Carrick Earls who lived at Turnberry Castle. And as one of these, Duncan by name, wished to build and endow an Abbey on his lands for the glory of God and the good of his fellowmen, he resolved, amongst other gifts, to bestow upon the reverend fathers .and brethren of Crossraguel, Ailsa Craig, that their table might be duly supplied with what at that time would doubtless be considered rare delicacies. For, however bare and unproductive Ailsa may now appear to us, it must be remembered that in those days of swampy lands and poor tillage, an island like Ailsa, teeming during part of the year with countless sea-fowl, and during another part, with prolific conies, would appear quite a providential storehouse.

 

This, at least, is what seems to be the most probable Tersion of a fact which I now proceed to state. That fact is, that the first time the name of Ailsa actually appears in a written document is in a charter dated 1404, granted by King Robert III.—the poor unfortunate grandson of Bruce, who died at Rothesay Castle—confirming to the Crossraguel Monastery all the various lands then possessed by them; and amongst these occurs this one:—" Item, Insula de Ailysay, cum pertineiiciis." Here, then, is the first mention of our Craig in history. It then belonged to the Abbey of Crossraguel, and had certain pertinents, or belongings, which probably consisted of the buildings then standing on it.*


Ailsa thus seems to have been disjoined from the rest of the Barony of Knockgarron, and the main portion of the property passed into other hands, after the Bruces (who succeeded the old Carrick Earls) ascended the throne. In this way, we find the Barony of Knockgarron, in 1480, in possession of a family of the name of Fergusson. In 1526, the Barony was " resigned " by Neil Fergusson to William Kennedy, Abbot of Crossraguel. And finally, "the nonentries of the Barony of Knockgarron, with all pertinents," were granted in charter, dated 1548, by Quintin, Abbot of Crossraguel, to Gilbert, third Earl of Cassillis. The only curious circumstance about this latter conveyance is that it was a sale or gift of certain lands of the church, within twelve years of the Reformation, to a relative of the Abbot's; and it looks as though the church dignitaries of that day, seeing disendowment looming in the distance, were quietly " setting their house in order."


But how about Ailsa Craig, which we saw had become disjoined from the old Barony of Knockgarron, and annexed to the possessions of Crossraguel 1 We cannot clearly trace the history ; but we know this much, that after the Reformation, it appears united to its old Barony again under the ownership of the Cassillis lords. They, as is well known, fell heirs, one way or other, to most of the Crossraguel lands, and to Ailsa amongst the rest. The old barony thus continued entire till 1850, when the late Marquess of Ailsa sold the landward portion of Knockgarron Barony to Mr Mackie, the present proprietor, reserving, however, the island of Ailsa, which thus remains in possession of our great local family. In 1883, in consider¬ation of £1400, five acres of land on Ailsa were disposed of to the Northern Lighthouse Commissioners, for the purpose of erecting on it the present Lighthouse establishment.


The tenant of the Craig pays a yearly rent of £30, which is made up by the sale of rabbits, but chiefly by the export of curling stones. In addition to this, he is bound, when required, to supply the proprietor with a certain number of sea-fowl and their eggs during the season.


In Paterson's History of Ayrshire, it is said that the Barony of Knockgarron, with the islands of Ailsa and Sanda, at one time belonged to the Fairlies of Fairlie, near Kilmarnock; and that the Marquess of Ailsa used to pay a lordship of so many solan geese to be laid down at the door of Fairlie House, every year. But I question the accuracy of this statement. At any rate, I cannot trace the owner¬ship of Ailsa save through the three proprietors already named :—The Earls of Carrick, previous to the endowment of Crossraguel Abbey; The Abbots of Crossraguel, from that date to the Reformation in 1560; the Cassillis family, from the Reformation to the present day. In 1580, Balfour says "the Earl of Cassillis holds Ailsa of the Abbey of Crossraguel;" and we know it has never changed owners since then. It only remains to be added that in 1806 the Earl of Cassillis was raised to the dignity of Baron Ailsa; and in 1831 to the still higher dignity of Marquess of Ailsa.


There is, it appears, an Irish tradition that Ailsa Craig is a portion of Ireland, and that that is the reason why there are no snakes on it! King Brian Boroimhe (pron. Boroo), who flourished about the year 1000, seems to have laid his hands on it, and the Irish call it Brian's Stone to this day. It is thus a recent rhyming Irishman regards the matter:-

 

There is a rock, a sea-girt rock,
   That's known the world wide

As the beacon of the mariner
   That's steering for the Clyde.

For Ailsa Rock is anchored sure;
   It guides the pilot true,

Although his bark like seagull rides
   On ocean-mountains blue.

 

Our sailor lads on foreign seas
   For months or years may roam,

Bat here they hitch their breeches high,
   And shout three cheers for home.

And emigrants in going forth
   To seek the golden ore.

At Ailsa breathe a parting prayer
   For dear friends left on shore.


And Pat, whose eyes are dim with tears
   For Molly left alone,

Exclaims, "Bedad, I'm half seas o'er,
   There's Brian Boru's big stone;"

 

        *   *   *   *   *   *   *
Bad luck to the gosoon spalpeen,
   Or Saxon idle drone,

Who would make filthy lucre
   Out of Brian's blessed stone.'

 

* It is a common tradition that Ailsa was used as a sort of " Botany Bay" for refractory monks. But this is absurd.